Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
